Day 15 · Wednesday 24 March · Kyoto

Mountains: Kurama to Kibune

The best hike near the city, 6 km over the ridge between two shrine villages, with an onsen at the end and ramen on the way home.

Day 15 ↗ Wed 24 Mar Kyoto machiya

Mountains: Kurama to Kibune

The best hike near the city, 6 km over the ridge between two shrine villages, with an onsen at the end and ramen on the way home.

Transit: Eizan line from Demachiyanagi to Kurama, 30 min. Not covered by the subway-and-bus pass.

Morning
Kurama-dera up the cedar path, over the ridge past the exposed roots of Kinone-michi, down to Kifune Shrine. 2.5–3h. Kurama → Kibune mountain hike
Midday
Lunch in Kibune, then back to Kurama for Kurama Onsen's outdoor bath.
Afternoon
Down the Eizan line to Shugakuin. The Imperial Villa's reserved afternoon tour (free, 80 min) is a ten-minute walk from the station, with Shisen-do next door for anyone still walking. Shugakuin Imperial VillaShisen-do & Enko-ji
Evening
Ichijoji ramen street. Ichijoji ramen street

Rain / alternative: Gentler: Ohara's Sanzen-in and Jakko-in by bus 17. Quieter and steeper: Takao's Jingo-ji, 400 stone steps and no foreign visitors. Rain: yudofu at Okutan by Nanzen-ji and the covered Nishiki Market.

hikeonsenreturnersbooking: Shugakuin from 21 Dec

Places today

Hike · Kyoto ·half day

Kurama → Kibune mountain hike 鞍馬〜貴船

The best half-day hike from central Kyoto: up through Kurama-dera's cedar forest — vast exposed tree roots, small shrines, the spot where Ushiwakamaru supposedly trained with the tengu — over the ridge and down to Kibune Shrine's lantern-lined stone staircase. About 6 km, 2.5–3 hours walking, and the Kurama→Kibune direction is mostly downhill on the second half.

Tip: Eizan Kurama line from Demachiyanagi, ~30 min to Kurama; walk 2 km down the road from Kibune to Kibuneguchi station for the return. Trail is open and in use as of 2026. Late March is cold and can be muddy at altitude — proper shoes. Onsen at Kurama Onsen (¥1,000 outdoor bath) at the end if you reverse the direction.

Kurama-dera ¥500; Eizan train ~¥500 each way morning source ↗
Garden · Kyoto ·2h incl. travel

Shugakuin Imperial Villa 修学院離宮

Three garden complexes stepped up the Higashiyama foothills, connected by paths through working rice paddies that the Imperial Household still farms. The upper garden's Rinun-tei terrace gives the best borrowed-landscape view in Kyoto — the whole northern basin framed by a clipped hedge. A 3 km, 80-minute guided walk with real slopes.

Tip: Free but reservation-only via the same IHA system (sankan.kunaicho.go.jp), open three months ahead; popular slots go to a lottery. Tours in Japanese with free multilingual audio guides. Bring passports. 20 min walk or short bus from Shugakuin (Eizan line) — pairs with Shisen-do/Enko-ji on the same side of town.

free weekday source ↗
Garden · Kyoto ·2h for both

Shisen-do & Enko-ji 詩仙堂・圓光寺

Two small hillside temples above Ichijoji, ten minutes apart. Shisen-do is a 17th-century scholar's retreat with a white sand garden, a shishi-odoshi that clacks every minute, and a tatami veranda you sit on. Enko-ji adds a moss-and-maple garden, a bamboo grove, and a viewpoint over the city. Both are a twenty-minute bus ride from downtown and both are usually near-empty in March.

Tip: Shisen-do 09:00–17:00, closed 23 May. Enko-ji 09:00–17:00 (autumn requires advance tickets; March does not). Bus 5 to Ichijoji-Sagarimatsucho, or Eizan line to Ichijoji + 15 min uphill walk. Combine with Ichijoji ramen street for lunch and Manshu-in nearby.

Shisen-do ¥700, Enko-ji ¥600 (~EUR 4 each) weekday source ↗
Food · Kyoto ·1h

Ichijoji ramen street 一乗寺ラーメン街道

The densest ramen strip in Kansai, along Higashioji north of Kitaoji: Menya Gokkei's thick chicken paitan, Takayasu's pork-bone bowls with a mountain of karaage, the original Tenkaippin whose broth is closer to gravy than soup, plus Jiro-style and shoyu shops. Twenty minutes from downtown and almost entirely Japanese customers. Pairs perfectly with a Shisen-do / Enko-ji afternoon.

Tip: Coordinate is Ichijoji station on the Eizan line (from Demachiyanagi, ~7 min); the shops run along Higashioji-dori a few minutes' walk west. Queues of 20–40 min at Gokkei and Takayasu at peak — go at 11:30 or after 14:00. Ticket machines, cash, counters only, so a group of five will usually be split up.

¥900–1,400 per bowl (~EUR 5–8) optional source ↗