Day 14 · Tuesday 23 March · Kyoto

Arashiyama early, then uphill to the stone Buddhas

Bamboo before eight or not at all. Tenryu-ji at opening, then the returners' half: the walk up through Saga-Toriimoto to Otagi Nenbutsu-ji's 1,200 laughing rakan.

Day 14 ↗ Tue 23 Mar Kyoto machiya

Arashiyama early, then uphill to the stone Buddhas

Bamboo before eight or not at all. Tenryu-ji at opening, then the returners' half: the walk up through Saga-Toriimoto to Otagi Nenbutsu-ji's 1,200 laughing rakan.

Transit: First JR Sagano train from Kyoto Station to Saga-Arashiyama, 15 min.

Morning
07:00 bamboo grove. 08:30 Tenryu-ji, exit through the north gate. Walk 35–40 min uphill through Saga-Toriimoto to Adashino and Otagi Nenbutsu-ji. Arashiyama Bamboo GroveTenryu-ji & Sogenchi GardenOtagi Nenbutsu-ji & the Saga-Toriimoto walk
Midday
Bus back down, lunch in Arashiyama.
Afternoon
Katsura Imperial Villa tour if the slot came through (same side of town). Otherwise cross to the Philosopher's Path and Honen-in. Katsura Imperial VillaPhilosopher's Path & Honen-in
Evening
Obanzai at Menami or Ganko Nijoen, reserved. Oryori Menami (obanzai)Ganko Takasegawa Nijoen (izakaya for five)

Rain / alternative: Rain: Kyoto Railway Museum and Nishijin Textile Center, both indoors and both open Tuesdays.

first-timersreturnersbooking: Katsura from 21 Dec

Places today

Nature · Kyoto ·30min

Arashiyama Bamboo Grove 嵐山 竹林の小径

A 500 m path through towering moso bamboo. It is genuinely striking and genuinely ruined by 09:00 — by mid-morning in late March it is a slow-moving queue. Before 08:00 you can have it nearly empty, and the same early start puts you at Tenryu-ji for its 08:30 opening.

Tip: Be there before 08:00. First JR Sagano-line train from Kyoto Station to Saga-Arashiyama takes ~15 min; the walk from the station is ~10 min. Combine with the Otagi Nenbutsu-ji walk uphill afterwards.

free morning source ↗
Garden · Kyoto ·1h

Tenryu-ji & Sogenchi Garden 天龍寺

UNESCO-listed head temple of the Tenryu-ji Rinzai school, whose Sogenchi pond garden by Muso Soseki is one of the oldest surviving designed landscapes in Japan and has never been rebuilt. The north gate opens straight onto the bamboo grove, which makes it the efficient first stop of an Arashiyama morning.

Tip: Opens 08:30, earlier than most Kyoto temples. Buy the garden-only ticket unless it is raining. Exit via the north gate directly into the bamboo path.

¥500 garden / +¥300 buildings (~EUR 3–5) morning source ↗
Hike · Kyoto ·half day incl. walk

Otagi Nenbutsu-ji & the Saga-Toriimoto walk 愛宕念仏寺・嵯峨鳥居本

1,200 moss-covered rakan statues, each carved by a different amateur sculptor in the 1980s and each with its own expression — tennis rackets, cassette players, grins. It sits at the top of the preserved Saga-Toriimoto street, 35–40 minutes uphill from the bamboo grove past Adashino Nenbutsu-ji (8,000 memorial stones, ¥500). Almost nobody walks up this far, which is exactly the point.

Tip: Walk uphill from the bamboo grove and take the bus back down (Kyoto Bus 62/72 from Otagidera-mae to Arashiyama), or reverse it and coast downhill. Otagi Nenbutsu-ji opens 09:00–16:45.

¥500 (~EUR 3) morning source ↗
Garden · Kyoto ·1.5h incl. travel

Katsura Imperial Villa 桂離宮

The building that Bruno Taut called the beginning of modern architecture: a 17th-century imperial retreat of shoin pavilions and tea houses arranged around a stroll pond so that every turn of the path composes a new view. Guided access only, ~60 minutes, and the most rewarding single hour in Kyoto for anyone who cares about design. Perfect returner pick.

Tip: RESERVE: Imperial Household Agency online at kyoto-gosho.kunaicho.go.jp — bookings open THREE MONTHS ahead, so for a 21–26 Mar 2027 visit book from late Dec 2026. Also same-day tickets at the gate and next-day in-person at the IHA Kyoto office. Bring passports — ID is checked. Under-12s not admitted. 20 min walk from Hankyu Katsura.

¥1,000 adults 18+ (~EUR 6); under 18 free weekday source ↗
Nature · Kyoto ·2h with stops

Philosopher's Path & Honen-in 哲学の道・法然院

Two kilometres of canal-side path from Ginkaku-ji down to Nanzen-ji, lined with several hundred cherry trees that turn it into a tunnel in bloom. Honen-in, five minutes off the path, is the returner's stop: a thatched gate, two raked sand mounds redesigned each fortnight, and usually nobody there — grounds free, main hall open only in early April and November.

Tip: The cherry tunnel peaks a few days after Kyoto's official bloom date — in a 25–30 Mar early-bloom year expect first colour rather than full canopy. Honen-in 06:00–16:00. Walk it north to south and end at Nanzen-ji for yudofu.

free (Honen-in grounds free) morning source ↗
Food · Kyoto ·2h

Oryori Menami (obanzai) お料理 めなみ

The obanzai reference point: an 80-year-old counter on Kiyamachi where the day's dishes sit in bowls along the bar and you point at what you want. Michelin Bib Gourmand in 2024. The assorted obanzai plate runs about ¥1,500, so five people eat and drink properly for well under ¥5,000 each — the best value-to-quality ratio in central Kyoto.

Tip: Kiyamachi-dori Sanjo-agaru, ~3 min from Keihan Sanjo. Counter-heavy, so a party of five needs a phone reservation (ask your machiya host or hotel to call). Closed Sundays.

¥3,500–5,000 pp with drinks (~EUR 20–30) evening source ↗
Food · Kyoto ·2h

Ganko Takasegawa Nijoen (izakaya for five) がんこ高瀬川二条苑

A Meiji-era villa with a Ogawa Jihei stroll garden on the Takasegawa canal, run as a large, reasonably priced izakaya-restaurant. The point for this trip is capacity: unlike almost everything on Pontocho it comfortably seats a party of five (and much larger), takes online reservations, has an English menu, and still gives you sashimi and a proper garden view for ¥3,000–5,000 a head.

Tip: North end of Kiyamachi at Nijo, 5 min from Kyoto-Shiyakushomae subway. Book online via the Ganko site or Tablecheck. Ask for a garden-side room. Good fallback on nights when Pontocho turns away a group of five.

¥3,000–5,000 pp dinner (~EUR 18–30) evening source ↗