Day 9 · Thursday 18 March · Matsumoto & Kiso

Narai-juku, the easy Nakasendo day

A full kilometre of unbroken Edo street with its own station and none of Tsumago's crowds, plus the lacquerware village next door.

Day 9 ↗ Thu 18 Mar Asama Onsen

Narai-juku, the easy Nakasendo day

A full kilometre of unbroken Edo street with its own station and none of Tsumago's crowds, plus the lacquerware village next door.

Transit: Chuo line Matsumoto → Narai, 45–70 min, usually changing at Shiojiri. IC cards do not work on every local here; carry cash for tickets.

Morning
Narai-juku main street, Kiso-no-Ohashi wooden bridge. Narai-jukuKiso-no-Ohashi Bridge
Midday
Sanzoku in Shiojiri on the way if the timing lands (birthplace of sanzoku-yaki), or a soba house in Narai. Sanzoku (Shiojiri)
Afternoon
Walk 30 min (or one stop) to Kiso-Hirasawa and buy lacquerware straight from the workshops. Optional: Torii Pass trailhead look, but it is a snow route until April. Kiso-Hirasawa lacquerware villageTorii Pass: Yabuhara to Narai
Evening
Back to Asama. Second ryokan dinner, or Shizuka izakaya in town (phone ahead for five, basashi appears unannounced). Shizuka

Rain / alternative: Clear morning with the Alps out: Daio Wasabi Farm and Azumino by bike from Hotaka instead, and move Narai to Friday morning.

nakasendoshopping

Places today

Neighbourhood · Kiso Valley ·2–3h

Narai-juku 奈良井宿

A full kilometre of unbroken Edo townscape — the longest post town on the Nakasendo — which grew rich because travellers had to stop before tackling the Torii Pass; it was nicknamed Narai of a Thousand Houses. Deep eaves, latticed second storeys that overhang the street, lacquer workshops and comb makers still working. Narai gets a fraction of Tsumago's crowds, has its own station on the Chuo line, and in March you can have the street almost to yourself.

Tip: 45–70 minutes from Matsumoto by JR Chuo local train, usually changing at Shiojiri, and Narai Station is at the north end of the street — no bus needed, which is why it is by far the easiest Kiso day trip from a Matsumoto base. Many shops close on Tuesdays and several shut entirely in winter; expect the street quiet and some shutters down in mid-March. Byaku Narai, a converted sake brewery, is the one high-end place to stay or eat.

free to walk; Kamidonya and Nakamura House museums ¥300–500 each morning source ↗
Viewpoint · Kiso Valley ·15min

Kiso-no-Ohashi Bridge 木曽の大橋

A 33 m arched wooden footbridge over the Narai river, built without a single central pier from Kiso hinoki more than 300 years old — a modern build in the old technique rather than an antique, and the postcard shot of Narai. It is five minutes from Narai Station at the roadside station, lit at night, and takes about two minutes to see.

Tip: Right beside the Michi-no-Eki car park, so it is the first thing you hit walking in from the station side. In March the riverbank is bare — take the shot from the bank downstream with the town behind rather than head-on.

free morning source ↗
Food · Matsumoto ·1h

Sanzoku (Shiojiri) 山賊

The claimed birthplace of sanzoku-yaki, run by the third generation of the family whose grandfather invented the dish about eighty years ago. It is a five-minute walk from Shiojiri Station, which happens to be the junction where the Chuo line splits toward the Kiso Valley — so it is a genuine lunch stop on the way to or from Narai rather than a detour.

Tip: Shiojiri is 12–15 minutes by local train from Matsumoto and is where you change for Narai, so build it into the Narai day. Opening days are limited — check before committing five people to a train connection around it.

¥1,500–2,500 pp (~€9–15) lunch source ↗
Shop · Kiso Valley ·1–2h

Kiso-Hirasawa lacquerware village 木曽平沢

A quiet working village of about 100 lacquer workshops thirty minutes' walk north of Narai, a nationally designated preservation district and historically the source of much of Japan's everyday lacquerware. There are no crowds and no tourist infrastructure — you walk in off the street into workshops and buy bowls, chopsticks and trays directly from the people who made them. The Kiso Lacquerware Museum sits between here and Narai.

Tip: Its own station, Kiso-Hirasawa, is one stop from Narai on the Chuo line, so you can walk one way and train back. Many workshops are one-person operations that close unpredictably — do not travel here specifically without checking, and treat it as a bolt-on to the Narai day. The best souvenir purchase available on this leg of the trip.

chopsticks from ¥1,500, bowls ¥3,000–15,000 (~€9–88) weekday source ↗
Hike · Kiso Valley ·3h

Torii Pass: Yabuhara to Narai 鳥居峠

The hardest and highest surviving section of the Nakasendo in the Kiso Valley: about 6–8.5 km between Yabuhara and Narai over a 1,197 m pass, climbing roughly 300 m in 3 km before descending. Old stone paving, a shrine at the top, Ontake views on clear days, and a far wilder feel than the Magome–Tsumago stroll. Walk it Yabuhara to Narai so the descent lands you in the post town.

Tip: March is the problem. The Kiso tourism office's own guidance is that the pass is closed by snow roughly December to April; individual hikers have crossed it in mid-March, but that is a snow hike, not a walk. At 1,197 m with a north-facing descent, assume packed snow and ice on 17–21 Mar 2027 unless the local information centre in Narai or Yabuhara says otherwise on the day. Do not plan this for a group of five with no winter kit — treat the Magome–Tsumago section as the hike and this as an upgrade only if conditions and gear allow. Bears are present; carry a bell.

free morning source ↗
Food · Matsumoto ·2h

Shizuka しづか

An old-school izakaya near Nawate Street with dark beams and a long counter, doing the full Shinshu spread: oden simmered all evening, basashi (horse sashimi), sanzoku-yaki, yakitori, local sake. It has private sectioned rooms, which is what makes it workable for a table of five rather than a bar-stool scramble. This is the group dinner if you want one Matsumoto meal that covers every regional speciality at once.

Tip: Tabelog's own guidance is to phone for parties of five or more rather than rely on the online booking form. Ask your accommodation to call — English on the phone is not guaranteed. Basashi is raw horse and worth flagging to the group in advance.

¥3,500–5,000 pp with drinks (~€21–29) evening source ↗