Day 12 · Sunday 21 March · Kyoto

Down the valley and out to Kyoto

Linear exit through Nagiso and Nakatsugawa. Arrival lands on Vernal Equinox Day, the start of a three-day domestic weekend, so keep ambitions low: the To-ji flea market and its night sakura are enough.

Day 12 ↗ Sun 21 Mar Kyoto machiya

Down the valley and out to Kyoto

Linear exit through Nagiso and Nakatsugawa. Arrival lands on Vernal Equinox Day, the start of a three-day domestic weekend, so keep ambitions low: the To-ji flea market and its night sakura are enough.

Transit: Tsumago → Nagiso (bus or the 1h old-road walk past the Momosuke bridge), local to Nakatsugawa ~20 min, Shinano to Nagoya 50 min, Tokaido Shinkansen to Kyoto 35 min. ~¥8,500 pp, ~90 min from Nakatsugawa. Nozomi runs all-reserved 20–22 Mar: book seats.

Morning
Early bus to Nagiso, coffee at the station, trains south and west. Getting out: Matsumoto or Nakatsugawa to Kyoto on 21 MarchNagiso StationNakatsugawa Station
Afternoon
Check into the machiya. If you land by 15:00: Kobo-san, the 21st-of-the-month flea market at To-ji. To-ji — pagoda & night cherry illumination
Evening
To-ji night cherry illumination from 18:00, then dinner downtown. Do not attempt Kiyomizu-dera on a holiday Sunday.
travel daypublic holiday weekend

Places today

Transport · Matsumoto ·1h30–3h15

Getting out: Matsumoto or Nakatsugawa to Kyoto on 21 March 松本・中津川から京都

Two ways to reach Kyoto, and one of them saves a whole backtrack. Route A: Matsumoto to Nagoya on the Shinano (2h10, about ¥6,140 reserved / ¥5,610 unreserved) then Tokaido Shinkansen Nagoya to Kyoto (35 min), roughly ¥11,500–12,000 and about 3h15 total. Route B, the linear one: finish the Nakasendo in the south of the valley, take the Shinano from Nakatsugawa to Nagoya (50 min) and the Shinkansen on to Kyoto, quoted by japan-guide at about ¥8,500 and 90 minutes from Nakatsugawa.

Tip: Route B is the better plan and is what this itinerary should do: it removes a two-hour backtrack north to Matsumoto, saves roughly ¥3,000 per person, and lets the last morning be the Magome walk rather than a train ride. It only works if the last night is spent in the south of the valley (Tsumago, Nagiso or Magome), so build the accommodation around it. Both routes need the Tokaido Shinkansen, which the nationwide JR Pass covers on Hikari and Kodama but surcharges on Nozomi. Watch the luggage: Nagoya to Kyoto oversized-baggage seats need advance booking if anyone has a large case.

Route A about ¥11,500–12,000 pp (~€68–71); Route B about ¥8,500 pp (~€50) morning source ↗
Transport · Kiso Valley ·transfer point

Nagiso Station 南木曽駅

The northern trailhead station for the Magome→Tsumago Nakasendo walk, 98.9 km from Nagoya. Finish the walk in Tsumago, take the local bus down to Nagiso, and catch a train back to Matsumoto — or onward south to Nakatsugawa and Nagoya.

Tip: The Tsumago–Nagiso bus is cash only and infrequent — check the last departure before you start walking, or budget ¥2,000 for the taxi. A small station with no staffed ticket office at all hours; buy onward tickets at Matsumoto or pay at the destination.

Tsumago–Nagiso bus ¥300; train ≈¥1,520 to Matsumoto, ≈¥330 to Nakatsugawa late afternoon, after the walk source ↗
Transport · Kiso Valley ·transfer point

Nakatsugawa Station 中津川駅

The southern gateway to the Kiso valley, 79.9 km from Nagoya, and the bus terminal for Magome. On 21 March this is where you change from Kiso valley locals to the JR Chuo Rapid down to Nagoya, which connects to the Shinkansen for Kyoto.

Tip: Nakatsugawa→Magome bus is 30 min, ¥570, cash. If you walk Magome→Tsumago in this direction you end at Nagiso, not back here. Rapid services to Nagoya run about every 30 minutes.

≈¥1,980 from Matsumoto; ¥1,340 to Nagoya (1h19 rapid); bus to Magome ¥570 any source ↗
Experience · Kyoto ·1h

To-ji — pagoda & night cherry illumination 東寺

Japan's tallest wooden pagoda (55 m) lit from below with a huge red weeping cherry, the Fuji-zakura, in front of it and both reflected in the pond. The 2026 illumination ran 14 March – 12 April, so unlike Kiyomizu-dera's this one reliably covers a 21–26 March stay. Fifteen minutes' walk from Kyoto Station, which makes it an easy last evening.

Tip: 2026 dates 14 Mar–12 Apr, 18:00–21:30 (last entry 21:00) — 2027 dates published around Feb; check toji.or.jp. Daytime grounds are free; Kondo/Kodo halls and the pagoda interior are ticketed separately. The 21st of each month is the Kobo-san flea market — 21 March 2027 is your arrival day and the market is worth an hour.

¥1,000 night entry (~EUR 6) evening source ↗